Courtship:
Courtship is always initiated by the male. He will extend his dewlap and start a series of head-bobs. If the female is not receptive, she will immediately run away and it is not likely that he will be able to catch her to mate (this might be a problem in a small enclosure). If she is receptive, she will make a half-hearted effort at an escape and the male will catch her. At this point, things will get a bit violent. Anoles are hardly romantic. The male will bite the female on the back of the neck and attempt to hold her still (it might take a bit of effort). He will then maneuver so that he can mate with her. Struggling females may be injured or even killed during mating. The actual mating usually lasts 10-15 minutes. So, unless you watch your Anoles all day, you are likely to miss them mating. The first time I saw a pair of mine mating, all I could see was their tails sticking out of the foliage in the enclosure.
Sexual maturity:
Usually all that is required is to put a male and female in the same enclosure. Male and female Green Anoles are sexually mature at 8-9 months of age. If they are older than that, they are ready to breed.
Breeding:
Green Anoles usually start their mating season shortly after they come out of their winter quarters (they don’t hibernate). Anoles can also be brought into breeding condition with brumation. Reduce the nighttime temperature to right at 60 degrees and decrease the photoperiod to 8-10 hours a day for 2-3 months. Then, when you lengthen the day and slightly raise the temperature, they will think it is spring and mating will occur. This is usually not necessary, though. You could always remove the female temporarily (for a couple of months) and then re-introduce her. Given the male’s propensity for “novel” females, breeding should immediately commence.
Males, like most reptiles, have two sex organs – the hemipenes. The males will also alternate their use but will usually show a preference for one over the mating season. In captivity, mating season is any time you put a male and female together. Although males have a defined territory that usually encompasses the territories of 2-6 females, they show a marked preference for “novel” females. That is, any new female that wanders into his territory. When that happens, it is “instant” mating season; something to remember when you consider adding another female into the enclosure with your male.
After mating, the female will start producing them at roughly two week intervals some 2-3 week, until a total of 10-12 eggs have been laid. The best indication that she has produced an egg is a sudden weight loss around the middle. Often, though, the first indication that she has laid an egg is when you see a hatchling scampering around the enclosure!
Eggs are produced one or two at a time. The female has two ovaries and will usually alternate fertilized eggs from each. Some females have a propensity for “twins” and will produce a pair of eggs separated by a couple of days at roughly 10 day intervals (two weeks if you count from the day the first one in the pair was laid). Often the last couple of eggs are infertile.
The female Anole will bury or partially bury the eggs in the enclosure at the base of plants or in the corners. If you see one on the surface of the substrate or in a water dish, on a leaf, etc. it is very likely infertile.
Female Anoles have the ability to store sperm for up to 7 months. This way, they can avoid unsuitable conditions and produce a full clutch once the weather warms (in the case of a fall mating) or when conditions improve.
If you use a paper or reptile carpet substrate, place a large container of a moist, suitable substrate in the enclosure for her to use in egg laying. If you choose to incubate the eggs outside the enclosure, remove them taking care not to turn them from their original position. The scientific studies are inconclusive on this point but why take the chance.
You can put them in a large deli dish or other plastic container. Fill the deli dish about ¾ full of Vermiculite that you can get at a garden supply store and add enough water to make it nice and moist (a 1:14 ratio of Vermiculite to water is about right). Make a depression in the Vermiculite with your thumb. Place the egg in the depression taking care NOT to turn it from its original position. Cover it with Vermiculite. At a temperature of 85 degrees at 70% humidity, the egg will hatch in 35-40 days. Make sure the deli dish has a cover and punch some small holes in it for ventilation. Also make sure that the Vermiculite doesn’t dry out.